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Buying a New Car

If you’ve chosen the car you want and researched it thoroughly, you’re ready to start visiting dealerships.

Get written quotes from several dealerships in your area, leaving the one nearest you until last - some manufacturers offer financial incentives to dealers on any sales they make to locals, so they’ll try extra hard to secure your business. 

Act confident and calm in your dealings with salespeople – even if you don’t feel it – and make it clear that you’ve done the preparation and know what you’re talking about.

Make all the important decisions before you go, including your price limit, any options you want, and how you plan to insure and finance your car.

Test driving

First, make sure you understand what your legal liability will be if you have an accident on your test drive. Focus on the comfort, handling and power of the car.

A good test drive lasts about 20 minutes, over at least 10km, including some rough roads, bends, highways and stop-start driving. Do a U-turn and parallel park to test the car’s steering and visibility.

Remember to stay composed – the dealer might decide they can boost the price if they see you get excited.

Should I haggle?

The simple answer is yes. Salespeople are trained to extract as much money from you as possible, so the first price they give you will invariably be inflated. If you’re nervous about haggling, take an experienced friend or make room in your budget to engage a car brokering service to do the job for you.

If you’re going to do the deal yourself, use the internet to find out the car’s invoice price so you know exactly what the dealer paid for it and how much profit they stand to make.

Focus your negotiations on the ‘drive away’ price – the total amount you pay, including all extra charges – so you don’t get any nasty surprises.

A handy tip: salespeople will be under the most pressure to meet their targets in the last week of the month, so this is a good time to do your serious negotiating.

This year’s model or last year’s?

Buying last year’s model at a discounted price after the current year model is released can be a good way to save money.

Keep in mind that this decision will impact the resale value of your car, so the discount offered to you should be significant enough account for this. If you think you’ll be upgrading your car pretty quickly, it’s probably not worth it.

If you plan on owning the car for around six years or more, depreciation will be less of a concern, so an older, discounted model might be a good option for you.

What options should I choose?

Options are extra features that don’t come as standard with the car. Certain options – like a tow bar or fog lamps – may be necessities for some drivers, while others will add a little luxury, such as alloy wheels or navigation systems.

Prioritise your needs over you wants here, find out the costs and factor them in to your overall budget. You should make firm decisions before you get to the dealer, and include the price of options in your overall negotiations.

Should I buy an extended warranty?

Most cars now come with a standard three-year warranty and satisfactory kilometre coverage.

You can choose to buy an extended warranty from most manufacturers and insurance companies, which will cover you after the standard warranty expires. Your dealer is likely to offer to organise one for you, but be wary – always read the fine print. Extended warranties – particularly those offered by dealers – can have strict requirements and claim limitations.

Take the time to weigh up the costs and benefits, and if you do decide to extend your cover, include the cost when negotiating the ‘drive away’ price. 

What extra charges can I expect?

The advertised price of your car is unlikely to include certain extra expenses, like stamp duty, registration and number plate fees. These charges are compulsory, so you need to make room for them in your budget.

Another extra expense you can expect is the dealer delivery fee, which is the amount charged by the dealership to prepare and deliver your new car. You might find there’s some wiggle room here, so include this when negotiating the overall price.

The dealer will probably offer other extras, like rust-proofing and paint protection. Don’t bother with these – they’ll probably be overpriced and most new cars don’t need them.

What paperwork should I bring?

All you really need to bring is your driver’s licence and a way to pay for the car.

If you want to show you’re really serious, it’s a good idea to bring some evidence of your research with you, including purchase quotes from the internet and other dealers (for both the car and for any options or extras you’ve chosen), as well as invoice price figures. 

What will I have to sign?

Once you’re ready to go ahead with the purchase, you will be asked to sign an ‘agreement for sale’ document. This is a legally binding contract, so read it very carefully before you sign!

Check that all costs (including extras and fees) are clearly itemised, and that there are no blank spaces anywhere in the document. The car colour and accessories you’ve chosen should be recorded, as should the car’s delivery date.

When should I arrange insurance?

You are responsible for your new car from the moment you complete your purchase and drive away, so you should sort out insurance before the sale is finalized.

Most insurance companies will offer temporary insurance (often called a ‘cover note) to protect you while you arrange permanent cover. 

Compliance and build dates

Before you accept ownership of your car, check the build and compliance dates (these can be found on plates fitted to the vehicle.) The build date indicates when the car was manufactured; the compliance date shows when it cleared customs.

While the compliance date legally determines the car’s model year, the build date is the important one when it comes time to sell. A car advertised as this year’s model may already be a year old according to the date of manufacture – the extra year will have an impact on its resale value.

If you’re looking to buy the current year model, don’t accept a car with a build date from last year unless you’re financially compensated. 

 

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